Esplorare le città gemelle: una guida per una fuga a Helsinki e Tampere, Finlandia
Finland's variegated artistic and cultural scenes, often overshadowed by its snowy landscapes, offer a rich tapestry beyond dog-sledding and aurora-hunting. A twin-city break, linking Helsinki and Tampere, offers a welcome exploration of Finland's artistic and design wealth.
Tampere, less familiar to visitors, is often dubbed the 'Manchester of Finland' for its industrial heritage and red-brick buildings. It has undergone a renaissance in recent years, transforming the old Finlayson factory area into a cultural hub, housing museums and festivals. Notably, G Livelab, an iconic music venue, was once a boiler house for a paper mill. To locals, Tampere is recognized as the sauna and theater capital, but it also houses the world's sole Moomin Museum, with Tove Jansson's archive stored within.
Helsinki, conversely, is known for its major galleries, such as Ateneum, home to Finland's largest collection, boasting rural life paintings, northern lights woodcuts, and international works by artists like Paul Cézanne and Vincent van Gogh. The contemporary galleries Amos Rex, Kiasma, and the intimate Kunsthalle are pleasantly close together, making it easy for visitors to indulge in a quick cultural fix.
Finland's cultural evolution has been intrinsically linked to its national identity. As a Swedish colony, the transition to loose Russian rule in 1809 marked the nation's initial steps towards autonomy, explored through art, architecture, and literature. The mid-19th century saw the weaving of folk creation stories into the epic and influential poem Kalevala, while National Romanticism - Finland's interpretation of Art Nouveau – blossomed later the same century. Tampere's cathedral is among many celebrated examples of this design style, while Helsinki rivals Prague and Barcelona for its Art Nouveau-style architecture.
In 1917, following 18 years of attempted 'Russification' by Tsar Nicholas II, the Russian Revolution granted Finland independence. These early years of freedom coincided with the emergence of Modernism, known as Functionalism in Finland, and gave birth to one of the movement's most internationally influential figures, Finnish architect, furniture designer, and town planner Alvar Aalto, who worked until the 1970s.
A more recent artistic renaissance was sparked by Helsinki City Council's 2016 rejection of a proposed Guggenheim Museum, leading to the funding of homegrown arts venues and the development of the Amos Rex gallery, whose futuristic courtyard has become one of Finland's most recognized sights.
The cities' cultural celebrations are annual highlights. August's Helsinki Festival is one of the largest arts gatherings in the Nordic countries, covering music, dance, theater, and circus, with the striking Musiikkitalo concert venue at its heart. September's Helsinki Design Week incorporates an open-house policy at many notable buildings in the capital, while Tampere has a similar ethos on the weekend closest to Tampere Day, the anniversary of it being granted city rights.
While exploring Finland's cultural wonders, travelers can still experience its natural beauties. Tampere is known for its lakes and easily accessible forest, with Lake Näsijärvi overlooking the Sara Hildén Art Museum. Helsinki, meanwhile, offers multiple sparsely populated islands a short ferry ride away, such as Vallisaari, hosting the Helsinki Biennial international art event in the summer of 2025.
Tampere's streets showcase the works of another pioneer, Wivi Lönn, the first woman in Finland to set up her own architectural practice. Her functional yet elegant designs greatly influenced the city's look during its early 20th-century boom. Author and illustrator Tove Jansson's The Moomins are another trailblazing force. The original ink illustrations of Jansson – some still bearing the remnants of her correction fluid – can be found at Tampere's Moomin Museum, an enchanting space for both adults and children.
Finland's sauna culture, dating back over 1,000 years, is deeply ingrained in the nation's identity. As visitors explore, they should follow local guidance on which saunas favor swimsuits over nudity, offer a chatty or contemplative atmosphere, or capture the smoke inside rather than using a chimney. Tampere boasts Finland's highest number of public saunas, including the oldest in operation, Rajaportti, which dates from 1906.
Many locals enjoy following a sauna with dinner. At Tampere's Saunaravintola Kuuma bistro on the waterfront, sauna-goers can dash from the steamy benches into a lake plunge pool. In Helsinki, a ten-minute ferry ride takes you to tiny Lonna Island, home to a sauna's terrace steps leading daringly into the Baltic Sea. Afterwards, sundowners and a meal at the island's inventive fine-dining restaurant create a relaxing evening. Alternatively, art enthusiasts can also double up on culture with a visit to the architecturally unique Serlachius Art Sauna near Helsinki.
A stroll around Helsinki reveals Finland's notable architectural eras. Katajanokka district, situated between the bustling South Harbour and lesser-visited North Harbour, teems with examples of the nature-inspired stone carvings of National Romanticism. Moving onto Senate Square, travelers will find Helsinki Cathedral and the university and government buildings in Russian Neoclassical style, designed by Carl Ludvig Engel. The Art-Nouveau Central Railway Station, with its iconic lantern bearers guarding the entrance, sits nearby.
Vicino, su Keskuskatu, il Bookstore Accademico nel grande magazzino Stockmann esibisce le caratteristiche del Modernismo di Alvar Aalto, dai bellissimi maniglioni in ottone curvato ai balconi slanciati. Al primo piano ospita anche un caffè in stile retrò.
Artek, l'azienda co-fondata da Aalto, ha il suo negozio di bandiera accanto, dove si vendono classiche poltrone, sgabelli a gambe L e articoli per la casa realizzati con la sua tecnica di curvatura del legno, oltre a disegni creati dalle sue prime e seconde mogli, Aino e Elissa, entrambe rispettate designer.
Una delle meraviglie architettoniche moderne della capitale, la Biblioteca Oodi, fiancheggia la piazza Kansalaistori e risale solo al 2018. In questa straordinaria struttura, i robot vengono utilizzati per smistare i libri e i residenti possono utilizzare macchine per cucire, occhiali VR e persino chitarre elettriche (in stanze insonorizzate). In qualità di visitatore, è possibile giocare a scacchi, leggere su una poltrona simile a un baccello o godersi un caffè sulla terrazza soleggiata.
Top Three Things to Do in Helsinki and Tampere
Amos Rex
Immergiti nel più grande museo d'arte privato della Finlandia sotto l'edificio funzionalista degli anni '30 di Amos Rex. I visitatori sono invitati a esplorare dipinti, sculture e installazioni immersive come la recente mostra che invitava i visitatori a sdraiarsi con illuminati blobs sul loro addome. visit.amosrex.fi/en
Galleria d'arte nazionale finlandese
La collezione Sinebrychoff espone opere europee più vecchie (14°-19° secolo), mentre quella dell'Ateneum spazia dal 19° secolo in poi, concentrandosi sulla vita locale attraverso l'opera commovente di Albert Edelfelt "Il trasporto della bara del bambino". Tuttavia, la galleria d'arte contemporanea Kiasma si concentra sull'avanguardia, con l'atmosfera impostata dalla fontana delle statue che piangono all'esterno. kansallisgalleria.fi/en
Cattedrale di Tampere
Costruita nel 1907 con blocchi di granito irregolari, questa cattedrale nazionale romantica presentaboth tree and bird motifs within its carved stonework. Inside, multiple frescoes, including Hugo Simberg's angel-wing motifs and a frieze depicting boys carrying a leafy garland – a symbol of life's journey – highlight its distinctive charm.
- A Tampere, visita il G Livelab, un'iconica sala da concerti ospitata in un'ex centrale termica di un antico mulino cartaceo, che mette in mostra il rinascimento culturale della città.
- Per gli appassionati d'arte a Helsinki, la Galleria d'arte nazionale finlandese ospita tre distinte collezioni: Sinebrychoff, Ateneum e Kiasma, offrendo una panoramica completa della storia dell'arte finlandese e dei pezzi contemporanei.
- Da vedere a Tampere è la Cattedrale di Tampere, un capolavoro dell'architettura nazionale romantica con incisioni intricate e affreschi bellissimi che mettono in evidenza il fascino distintivo della città.
